This set features wide soles, deep cavities, a slight offset, and Callaway’s VFT technology. These features combine to give these irons a high MOI (moment-of-inertia). Basically, the higher the MOI, the more forgiving the club is on mishits. By moving more of the weight lower in the clubhead and below the ball, it’s easier to get the ball airborne. Poor hits turn into OK shots. I’ve acutally hit the ground 3 inches behind the ball with a 4 iron from this set, and the ball still got in the air and went straight. It only went about 130 yards, but my playing partners just thought I was laying up. Besides that, I personally think these are the best looking Big Bertha irons yet.

First why write this? I had a customer treat me like a bully and I realized I was doing something others hated and didn’t realize it. I asked them to give me feedback and they asked me if I was happy that I got paid. Wow, I was being a feedback bully and I didn’t even realize it.
As a Seller:

Leave your positive as soon as you get paid. Your satisfaction over the transaction should only rely upon being paid, period. Everything else is reliant upon how you as the seller handle things such as the product, truthfulness in your statements, the packaging, shipping, and all your communications with your customer. For most buyers, as long as you deliver on your sale, they will be happy. Trust and you shale recieve.
As a Buyer:

Just be fair and leave a positive or nothing at all. If you had a somewhat bad experience and the product wasn’t what you wanted, or the shipping was late, or any of the other reasons why your experience could be bad, work with the seller. Most sellers will fix things. Even if the seller says As-Is they may still try to make things right.

If the problem is minor and the seller isn’t willing to remedy things it still may warrant a negative but at least give them a chance to prove the axiom “The Customer is always Right” not the axiom Caveat Emptor.
Final Thoughts:

I understand; if you get really crappy service, shipping, untruthful statements, leave a negative. Flame the buggers! That’s why the negative exists and it makes it easier for the rest of us to learn from your bad experiences.

Remember, as a seller or a buyer you can always have a second word on any feedback. You can even mutually remove feedback, so don’t hold back. As a seller, if you liked getting paid, say so. As a buyer. if you liked your purchase say so.
Don’t hold back and don’t blackmail for feedback. It makes you look like you are hiding something. It makes you appear untrustworthy.

especially the Valuelite. I work on horse trailers for a living and have seen to many to count that, because of the powdercoating trapping water, have deteriorated and rusted to the point of no longer being roadworthy within five to 7 years.

I have an Elgin K gold antique railroad watch,7 jewel second sweep hand serial number 5013 B.

It has Marlboro and swiss on the face, an Illinois Supreme watch case with the numbers 2105164 and has had two adjustments, also jc1443.

A buyer has won 3 of my auctions and is currently bidding on a fourth. She won the first two at a steal. My auction says Paypal or USPS money order. The first two auctions ended 11/19. Today, I receive a personal check for the auctions. I’m really P.O. What are my rights and options. I don’t want to wait another (how many days) for the check to clear. Can I cancel her purchase and relist as she did not follow the terms of the auction?

Please advise!!!

Put the bidder on your BBL (blocked bidder list) and send her an email stating that you will be returning her check as it is not in line with your terms.

Remind her that your listings state payment via XXX and XXX and that you will expect payment for the items by such n such date.

You could cancel her current bids, but if you do, she/he might get angry and not pay you at all.

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THE KIMBERWICK BIT

*Note:

My guide is in no way intended to replace the advice of your vet, trainer or other professional advisor. Rather, it reflects the experiences that I have personally found to be true with this bit. It is my hope that you find it interesting and informative, but only you can decide if a bit is right for you and/or your mount.
What is a Kimberwick bit?

Kimberwick Bit

A Kimberwicke is typically a bit with two “D” rings for the cheek pieces. Each D ring contains two separate slots, one being set higher up than the other. It has two solid loops for attaching to the headstall, and also usually two hooks with a curb chain attached.
What types of mouthpieces typically come with a Kimberwick?

Just about any thing you can imagine! Solid or broken mouth, copper rollers, low, medium or high ports, and mullens are a few options.

Important Note: There is a misconception out there among some horsepeople that any bit with a broken mouthpiece is a “snaffle.” This is not the case. A snaffle is defined as a “non-leverage bit with either a broken or solid mouthpiece.” When you use the Kimberwick with the curb chain that is usually attached, it is absolutely a LEVERAGE BIT, no matter what kind of mouth piece it has. Additionally, there are some bits on the market that are deceptively labeled” Cowboy Snaffle” with shanks and a broken mouthpiece that are in NO WAY snaffles. Tom Thumb bits are another name for them. Be very careful when useing these bits, because with the broken mouthpiece, long shanks and curb action, these bits can exhert a tremendous amount of leverage, pain and damage to a horse. In my humble opinon, these bits are some of the nastiest on the market, and better off tossed in the trash. Please research them very carefully before using, or better yet, choose another bit. Your horse will thank you!
What are the slots in the cheek D’s for?

When the reins are attached to the upper slot, more pressure is exherted on the horse’s tongue. When the lower slots are used, the rider can apply more leverage , especially in the curb area.

Note: You can also remove the curb chain so the bit will function more like a snaffle instead of a leverage bit. I have personally never done this, but I don’t see why someone could not use the bit this way if they wished.

My mare Avalon wearing her Kimberwick.
Why do I prefer this bit to all others that I have tried?

I personally like the Kimberwick due to it’s great versatility. All three of our riding horses came to us wearing long, medium-ported shank bits and our Missouri Foxtrotter mares had cavesons as well, and had both been out to pasture for years before they came to live with us. Both of the mares had only been ridden a few times a year, and neither knew how to neck rein. It can be fairly challenging to ride a horse who can barely turn with a direct rein in a curb bit. You can help things along by teaching them leg cues, but our newest mare was so pressure sensitive at first that the mere weight of your leg resting on her side sent her off in a flurry, so we had to teach her to accept our leg resting on her before we could even begin to think about using leg to turn her.

So, since none were well-finished (they were all downright green despite their ages) the shanked bit made it all but impossible to teach bending, pivots, sidepasses, proper backing, and the other things that I want my horses to learn before we head for the hills and trails.

Only our Appie/Quarter gelding Archie was neck reined, (sorta) but he had a terrible problem with throwing his shoulder out during his turns. He also tended to buck. We put him in a broken-mouthed Kimberwick so we could isolate each side individually, and that worked out much better.

Archie

Both of our mares and Archie responded in tremendously positive ways when we tossed those shank bits and cavesons to the curb and showed them that it did not have to hurt to have metal in their mouths. While Archie liked the broken mouthpiece at first, we eventually switched him over to a solid low-port, and both the mares have always preferred a solid mouthpiece as well.

As a matter of fact, our new mare Autum tossed her head so furiously when the owner tacked her up for our first test ride that he had to dismount and loosen the curb bit and caveson, but she still spent the entire ride fighting the bit and tossing her head. My husband and I could see very clearly that it was the bit and caveson that was causing her behavior problems, and not the horse herself, and she proved us right when we brought her home and changed her over to a Kimberwick.

I usually start my horses with the reins in the upper slots, and change to the lower slots if I needed a bit more leverage. My own riding Foxtrotter mare, Avalon, was a flighty sort of girl for the better part of 2 years when I first got her, and although she was worked in the round pen and arena for six months prior to her first trail ride, (and actually became extremely obedient and responsive, although spooky as a loon) those first trail rides were explosive! Not having been with me very long, she had little trust in me at that point, and I even less in her, and she could wind up 500 feet down the trail and turned backwards before I knew what hit me. All her training seemed to fly out the window for the first two years, especially that first 12 months. I just kept working with her in the round pen and arena, lowered the reins to the bottom slot for a bit more “umpf” on trail and now, 4 years later, she has finally settled down and become a quiet, responsive, polite girl who is my very best friend. She can still be quirky at times, does not like others riding or handling her, and jumps a bit still, but at least she does not explode much anymore. Whew…what a ride that girl can be!! Little wonder I have 3 helmets!
So, would a Kimberwick bit be right for me and my horse?

Well, it depends. In my opinion, a Kimberwicke is best for a horse who has at least been broken to ride (ours were, thank goodness) and can respond somewhat to a rider’s cues. If your horse’s training level is intermediate or above, a Kimberwick should do nicely. If you are new to riding or have never used these bits and choose to use a Kimberwick on a somewhat greener horse (as we did), make sure you consult a qualified trainer to help you.

If you are starting a young horse, almost all professionals will advise a simple snaffle at first. You can then graduate to a Kimberwick as a sort of “intermediate” bit to introduce the horse to the concept of leverage, and when your horse is completely finished you can move on to a full curb if you desire.

In my opinion, curb bits should only be used on a fully finished and well-trained horse being ridden by a knowlegable rider with good hands, a good seat and the ability to use his/her body to cue the horse. There is just too much potential for harm to the horse if a curb is used by a beginner or inexperienced rider.

As for the rider, although Kimberwick’s are lower-leverage than some bits, they are still leverage bits, and can cause a horse a good deal of pain and mouth trauma when constantly pulled or yanked. Although any bit can cause trauma if misused, if you are a beginning rider who has not “found your seat” so to speak, I would advise a snaffle at first. Also, if you have a hard time with your hands, yank on the bit or try to gain your balance through the horse’s mouth, you are definately not yet a candidate for a Kimberwick.

However, even if you are a novice, if you have a decent seat and quiet hands, and a fairly well-trained horse, a Kimberwick should work nicely for both you and the horse!
What other bits have I tried to compare with the Kimberwick and why did I not choose them?

Up until last year when I had to stop working due to my health, I had almost my entire paychecks to devote to horse stuff. It was great!! I tried all manner of things, including bits. I tried the following bits: Mikmar, Myler Combo Bit, Short-shanked “English” hackamore, Snaffle, broken mouthed Kimberwick, and a few more I cannot even remember. I won’t got into detail about each bit because it would take too long, but if you would like to email me about one of these bits and what I thought of it, please feel free to do so, as they all had different attributes and uses, and were for the most part acceptable.

However, after all that playing around and money spending, I finally concluded that the Kimberwick was the most useful and cost-friendly bit that I had tried and it seems to work well for pretty much all of my horses (including an Arab, Welch/Arab pony and Palomino Paint that we no longer have) so I have stuck with it ever since.

I have recently gone through the process of purchasing two horses. Our family had never owned one before, and we wanted the first to be a very mellow, obedient, calm horse that me and my siblings could all learn to ride on. We found the ideal mare, and we learned a lot about horse shopping in the process! So here are some things we have learned to look for in a beginner rider or kid’s mount. Some of these points may be obvious conclusions to you, but bear with me since I’m writing with the assumption that some of my readers don’t know much about horses.

Just for fun, here are a couple pictures of our first horse, Ginger.

Typically speaking, you will be better off with a gelding. This is certainly not a hard-and-fast rule. The first horse we purchased was a mare! Geldings do, however, tend to have a more steady temperament. Because a mare has a monthly cycle, she can be ornery or skittish for as long as a week at a time each month. But some mares, like mine, don’t experience any change in disposition during that time. It all depends on the individual horse. Geldings are also usually more expensive.
It’s good to know as much of the horse’s background as possible. Horses that come from abusive backgrounds are rarely good for beginner riders. They have trust issues and are often easily spooked or difficult to handle. A horse that has been well-cared for and loved will be safer because he will be willing to trust people, including young children.
An older horse with more experience is a good way to go when buying your first horse. Our mare is eighteen years old, and still has lots of get up and go, but she is also mellow. She’s obviously handled her share of kids, and is proving a good teacher for our beginner riders. Nothing seems to phase her, and I never even think of the possibility of bucking or kicking. She’s just too easygoing to do that! Younger horses often have a lot of jitters they still need to get out, and fears they haven’t overcome yet. Simply put, younger horses are still beginners themselves. This is fine for an experienced horseman, but for both the horse and the rider to be beginners can be unsafe and less than enjoyable for both.
Even the gentlest of horses may be hard to control once you allow him to take off in a run. Make sure that the horse you purchase is easily slowed down and still controllable at fast speeds. It’s a scary feeling to run a horse that you no longer have any power over, and it can be dangerous.
Now you’re probably thinking, How can I determine all these things before purchase, especially if the owner is dishonest? Well, here is the best tip of all that proved very useful for us. Many owners will allow you to take the horse for a one to two week trial period! This is extremely beneficial in helping you to decide if the horse is right for you and your kids. Let the horse settle in for two or three days, and interact at ground level during this time, grooming, feeding, petting, and helping him to get used to you and his surroundings.
Then begin riding. See if he is easy to manage and responsive to your commands. Make sure it is easy to keep him at a walk when desired, and try running and then pulling him back.

We do a lot of horseback riding in the Eagle Cap Wilderness, here in Northeastern Oregon. The horses have a hard time, when wearing iron shoes, of keeping their feet under them on the slick granit rocks. Also the trails are very rocky. Our pack horse had his feet go out from under him, on a tight switchback in the trail. The large granit rock was smooth and clear across the trail. He had taken the corner a little wide, so he was on the slope of the rock, the iron shoes are very slick on these rocks. He almost went over the side. By helping him, by pulling on the leadrope, he was able to get his feet back under himself. Then he lost a shoe, we were two days back in the mountains, so he had a very bad stone bruse by the time the ride was over. That is how I came to be using the Barrier Boot. I have used the Easy boot, found it very hard to put on the horse, and we find a lot of lost Easy boots in the mountains. I had to keep the Barrier boot on the horse for about 10 days for the stone bruse to heal. A second horse had also lost shoes in the mountains, so he too was very sore footed. After I placed the Barrier boots on, the horse took a couple of steps, and found his feet were not hurting, and he took off across the pasture. I have had one person say the Barrier boot had rubbed on the bulbs on the back of the hoof, I don’t know if this was becaue the boot was too loose or to tight. She said the boot would not stay on unless it was real tight than it rubbed the back of the hoof. I don’t know if a light wrap would help or not. I have not had this happen yet. We do enjoy our horses so we try to find ways to make things easier for the horse.

Ride with proper equipment. Carry things you might need on the trail.

First and foremost when you’re trail riding with a group, you must have good, safe, equipment and tack up your horse so the equipment stays on him! You can’t imagine how many times, I’ve seen a saddle come off a horse on a trail ride. Or a bridle come off. It seems crazy but someone will borrow a horse, borrow some equipment and think they’ve got everything they need to pull off a wilderness trail ride.

Make certain your cinch is hooked securely to both sides of your saddle. Make sure the saddle fits the horse and he’s comfortable with it for a long distance. The saddle pads must be flat and under the saddle all the way around.

When you first saddle your horse for a long ride, don’t pull the cinch up as tight and hard as you can get it. Let him get used to the idea. Keep him comfortable and he’ll be happy and like you for it! Tighten it some, before you get on, lead him around a bit and tighten it slowly to where you know it needs to be. If you stop along the trail, check your cinch to make sure he’s ok. Loosen it if you’re having lunch and give him a break. Just be sure to tighten it before you leave the rest area.

Your bridle must fit your horse, and all the buckles and straps should be fully hooked with no long straps hanging out or down or around your horse. Things get caught in the trees and brush and the less chance you have of this happening, the more enjoyable your ride will be.

I prefer a leather rein for trail riding, one that doesn’t hook to the bridle with a metal buckle in any way. Someone once gave me reins that attached to the bit with a buckle. That buckle hung up on something on my stirrup when my horse turned her head around for a pat. I changed back to my good old leather reins.

Good saddle bags are almost a necessity for a long ride. You can tie them securely to the saddle so they don’t come loose if you have a wreck. I had a saddle horn bag for my sandwich and water bottle and larger saddle bags behind the saddle for an extra lead rope, extra rein, any equipment I thought might come in useful.

In your group, a saw is a great thing to have for a mountain trail ride. There’s always a tree down across the trail somewhere and maybe no way around it. If some people in the group carry ropes, it can be extremely handy to have extras. Make sure you have basic first aid items with someone in the group. Each person doesn’t need a first aid kit, just make sure there’s one in the group.

Be sure you have a warm coat behind the saddle. For serious trail riding, have long straps on your saddle to hold items securely. Tie coats and extra clothing down so it’s very tight to your saddle. You don’t want something coming loose in the middle of the ride, to hang up on brush or to slap against the side of your horse.

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Those of you interested in an Australian saddle should be aware that they are measured differently from both English and Western saddles. Generally speaking, you need to buy the size that is 2″ LARGER than your Western seat size, or the SAME as your English seat size. Western saddles are true seat sizes; they are measured from the inside of the horn at the pommel straight back to the cantle. Aussie saddles are meaured from the very front of the pommel (where it is stitched together) - on the outside of the horn - straight back to the cantle. (Keep in mind that not all Aussies have horns. In fact, traditionally, they don’t.) This is why they Aussie size runs larger; it is actually the measurement of the entire tree, not just the seat. English seats are measured from the rivet (or tack or button - whatever you prefer to call it) found on the side of the pommel back to the cantle. This means that the sizing of Aussies and English saddles are similar, but not exactly the same. Leg positions, seat configurations and flap placement can vary widely in English disciplines, so the rivet is the best point of reference for measurement. For an Australian saddle, you definitely don’t want your legs jammed into the poleys - those swells at the front of the saddle designed to “lock” your legs in place. That would make for one uncomfortable ride! There should be a little bit of room for the rider to move, but not a lot. A finger or two in width should be about it (just like the amount of room you want between your leg and the swell of a Western saddle). When buying an Australian saddle on eBay, make sure to ASK HOW YOUR SELLER IS MESURING THE SADDLE! My friend and I were both victims of sellers who took Western measurements and we ended up with saddles that were HUGE! (I don’t know who my friend bought from, but my seller supposedly sells tack for a living here on eBay…) As Aussies are somewhat rare in the States, it is not unusual for even a reputable dealer with the best of intentions to sell you the wrong size saddle; they simply don’t know how to measure it! A quick word about English saddles: FORGET YOUR VANITY, GIRLS!!! Just like with clothing, your saddle size can be different from one style and manufacturer to another. Going up a size does NOT mean you have a big butt! In the English disciplines, the flap is an integral part of the saddle’s function. It can be smooth or have thigh blocks or knee rolls. These are meant to assist your leg aids. If your leg does not fit on the flap properly, you are doing yourself and your horse a disservice. That being said, measuring the seat size is only a guideline. You also nees to take the length of your thigh into consideration. For example, I am quite petite, at about 5′3″. However, I have long legs for my size. Therefore, rather than being able to ride in a 16″ seat, as my height would predict, I must use a 17″. My femur is 17″ long; my leg would hang over the flap of a 16″ saddle (unless they were customized to be very forward). In saddles with a cutback pommel, my size could go up again! Cutting away the pommel takes away some of the booty room; it’s got to come back somewhere! If Kate Moss were to take up riding, she would take a larger saddle than I do as she is far taller - WAY longer legs, even though her tiny rear end would probably have a lot of extra room in the seat. As women, we come in many different rear end sizes, so saddle manufacurers use generic sizing formulas and build them the best they can off of averages. The only way to have an exact fit to both you and your horse is to have a custom saddle made; then neither of you can change shape or weight from that point on… To summarize, if your knee reaches the end of your saddle flap (or more) while you are riding or you don’t have four fingers’ worth of room between the cantle and your rear end, you have the wrong size saddle! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ^ A quick conversion table (in inches): ^ ^ ^ ^ WESTERN: 15″ 16″ 17″ 18″ 19″ 20″ ^ ^ ^ ^ ENGLISH: 17″ 18″ 19″ 20″ 21″ 22″ ^ ^ ^ ^ AUSSIE: 17″ 18″ 19″ 20″ 21″ 22″ ^ ^ ^ ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ***MOST IMPORTANTLY*** Make sure your new saddle fits your HORSE; they are the ones carrying you around no matter what your size!